I was able to make a beautiful Holyoke dress for my daughter using just her measurements! She was thrilled because the dress has so much style (unlike the dresses she had been trying on in stores). The neckline is particularly flattering. She received lots of compliments when she wore it.
My daughter is not the easiest person to fit (43.5, 42, 44) and the dress is quite fitted on top. I took a chance sewing it even though she lives far away, and even though I’m not that experienced, knowing the Cashmerette patterns have an excellent reputation for being well drafted.
My daughter loved the idea that the buttons down the front could be sewn closed, so there would be no gaping. Thinking it through, we decided to eliminate the buttons altogether as the dress was for a wedding and we thought it might make the dress more formal, also it would save time. I would like to try a buttoned version in the future, though!
I used the given finished measurements to help me decide what sizes to use. I knew the pattern was drafted for someone 5’6”, so I took out 2” tried it up to me and then shortened it even more to make it more midi length, just at the narrowest part of the ankle…also I was a little short on fabric to be honest! The shorter length ended up flattering for someone not too tall. I decided to make an 18 G/H for the bodice. The directions on how to grade patterns were very helpful. I made sure to make the adjustments at the side seams, so the princess seams would line up with the pleats below the waist. I graded to a 20 at the side, plus 1/2 inch, then to a 22 at the waist and back to 20 for the hips. In the end, the bust was a tiny bit big (my daughter said, “If I put this on on a store, I would be happy with the fit. It’s fine.”) I think my mistake was doubting the measurements…eye balling the pattern and fitting the G/H up to me, I thought it would be better. E/F probably have been fine. After sewing, I tried it on. It was big on me (I’m a bit smaller) I double checked the finished garment measurements and took a chance and took in the side seams so they just fit my daughter’s measurements. The adjustment at the side seam was easy to do so, I thought she could reverse it if necessary. There was no need as it turned out.
The fabric my daughter chose was a polished viscose. I underlined all of the bodice pieces with a nice quality, light, iron on interfacing, as I felt the extra structure would help to support the lovely neckline, princess seams and straps. This also made it a pleasure to sew! The skirt was left as is and was fun to twirl around in when the dress was worn.